Edited Designs

Recent Designs

Designs to date

Drape dress made in 2010. Panel lines, soft draping, cut outs. Possible direction? Also uploaded a mildly out of proportion spec to show panel lines within the dress.

Christopher Kane - I love you

Sabatini Aesthetic/ Details

Hollywood Cinema

Took a step back from the automatic attraction to Art Deco/ Art Nouveau and looked at movie stars in 1930's/ 40's. To me their glamour, sexuality, and classic beauty resembled a Sabatini White Woman.

Also in here - Lucien Lelong. Fashion Designer in the 1920's/30's. Similar to Chanel in creating luxury 'sportswear' glam special pieces. This is a possible direction to move towards? Looser pieces, incorporating soft draped superfine knits to produce garments full of movement, luxury and easy going sexuality...

RECAP

Ok, im about to participate in one big blog vomit dating back from last week til now. Stay Tuned.

Part One

I made a mind map trying to work out Old Saba W and their NEW direction.

Concepts

Customer faces

Initial Concepts..

Round Two.

Givenchy Fall 2011

I thought these were quite a nice use of fringe

Colour blocks

These are not final colour palettes - just leaching tones off images I think work well, colourwise. I think navy, grey-blues, and very light grey-sand-greens could be interesting. Very VERY Art Nouveau and nature-focused. But I certainly like the staples off off-whites, white-golds, greys, and near-blacks.

knit knit lovely knit.

I don't know the first thing about knit fabric but I think this is pretty cool. Not the colour though, if we were to do dull gold it really needs to be a lot less green.

Textile View Magazine - fabrics and colours

Beautiful fabrics to think about. Quite a few light, textured ones - cut outs already part of the design. Most of these are quite light, which will have to be considered in terms of trans-seasonality. A lot are very natural colours, which certainly relates to Art Nouveau. In terms of the SW woman, she'd probably appreciate the detailing and patterns and whatnot, but they're fairly subtle so won't overdo anything. The nice thing about these natural colours is that they work at any tone (light to dark). This is more trend-forward (?) than the burgundy/camel which is unfortunately a bit of a thing right now.

Collection Pitch

Sabatini White uses design elements from historical dress with modern trends to dress the 25-40 year old high fashion market, and we followed the same ideas for inspiration. The beautifully distinctive forms of Art Nouveau and Art Deco are continually relevant in both aesthetic and philosophy. Art Nouveau grew in response to the changing relationship between man and nature. The post-Industrial Revolution world clung to romantic ideals of nature and attributed exotic, mysterious power to it. Conceptually, Art Nouveau links dialectically to today’s environmentally aware society, however this time we are afraid of our own power over nature. Sustainable clothing responds to this and is necessary for a high quality competitive brand. Aesthetically, the flowing organic lines are similar to Sabatini’s silhouettes and the naturalistic colour palette will be influential. Art Deco continues to have direct applicability to society today in its wanton, glamorous hedonism and the new independence of women. Sabatini White is a very glamorous, sexy label and the Sabatini woman is experiencing the same new freedom as the Art Deco flapper a century ago. The liberated, confident Art Deco portraits of Tamara de Lempicka epitomise the sexuality and independence of our Sabatini woman, while Art Nouveau highlights her natural beauty and form. Aesthetically, the geometric Deco shapes provide structure to balance the fluidity of Art Nouveau and a combination will create a new modern style for trans-seasonal wear. Deco and Nouveau combine dramatic glamour with sophisticated simplicity in functional, sustainable garments.

Notes on past three Collections

NOTE: Simple cuts with
- Cut outs on lapels, hems and edges feature subtly across several collections
- Neck, hem detail/embellishment (tassels)
- Curved hems
- Shoulder details
- Comparatively high necks
- Shoulder details
- Subtle print or knit – usually there is a pattern in the fabric SOMEWHERE
- Have noticed a lot of crochet, cut-out and tassel fabrics/embellishments in the last two collections. This could work very well
- Coats/cardigans tend to be very simple with detail on hem or opening/lapel.

SS10 – Ultra ‘sexy,’ lingerie
AW11 – Very fitted, still sexy low necks
SS11 – looser fit, tunic coming in, many more crew necks. Seperates make a stand, skirts/tops and double layer dresses. Much more Boho chic. Definately moving in the direction of fresh, sophistication projected for SS2013 by textile view.

Notes on colour/fabric trends

I think we need to look at a very light, summer palette. Although this is not new for Sabatini the fresh look is forecast to be in for S2012. weave and knit structures both play a big in garment construction which is definitely to our advantage. We must therefore ensure that we achieve the appropriate level of 'sexy' (for Sabatini)and softer fluidity for the high fashion image. Chic (sexy) peasant could be an option.

On the street S2012

NEW YORK COLOURS: White
Beige
Brights
Prints
Colour play
FABRICS: Cotton
Sheer
Linen blends
Silk Blends
Rayon
SILHOUETTES: Dresses that bare
Fit and flare
Tunics
Narrow leg pants
shorts
ACCESSORIES: High Heels
Wedgies
Small satchels
Decorated weave handbags
Bangles

LONDON COLOURS: White
Hot coral
Stone
Chestnut
Chambry Blue
FABRICS: Pale denim
Crepe
Silk
Leather
Billowy cotton
SILHOUETTES:
Pleats from shorts
Wide leg pants
Bow blouse
Volume sleeve top
ACCESSORIES: Summer scarves
Flat leather brogues
Mini satchel bags
Multiple long bead
Neckties
Soft leather pouch clutches



Overall:
White
flowing fabrics
Long skirts
Short Jackets
Satchel Bags

Trend forecasting - SS2013

Textile View
SS2012: A natural freshness characterises fabrics for summer in natural fibres. Fabrics revolve around ‘touch’ in plays of contrast that depend on blends and finishes, created with extraordinary technical prowess.
SS2012 MEN: A positive energy and a light determination were evident at the fabric salons, and the trends ‘menu’ was full to bursting.
W2012/13 While we endure a period of great turmoil unlike ever before, visually and emotionally plunged into recurring natural disasters, we feel this strong need to withdraw into ourselves and reconnect with nature.
W12/13 COLOUR: A round up on what Cotton Inc are saying about colours for winter 12/13. There’s still a severe and minimal side to palettes but there is also room for wit.
SS2012 WEAVES: Designed to lift the spirits but not to shock. AS grim economic tides recede with markets appearing to emerge from the crisis, colour and fabric are more bold and daring.
Natural feel is in BUT issues with soaring costs of natural fibres means that synthetic blends in look-a-like weaves are common.

Written summary

We began by looking at the intellectual theories and philosophies behind the art nouveau movement that developed during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. We thought that the idea of an artistically free and aesthetically original art movement worked well with the design ethos of Sabatini and Sabatini white. The movement bridged the transition between neo-classicism and the early developments of modernism in much the same way that Sabatini White endeavours to create a modern and new design aesthetic whist still retaining traditional forms that link it to the established cognoscenti. The movement was seen as a reaction to the industrial revolution and the process of machine manufacturing that had developed. We found it interesting to compare the state of modern society and the increasing importance of sustainability to the impact of the industrial revolution at the turn of the century.
Art Nouveau also roughly coincided with the development of first wave feminism and the beginnings of an accepted female consciousness. We see the Sabatini woman as one who has been liberated sexually, emotionally and academically. She is confident in her own abilities and shows this through her dress.
Aesthetically, we chose to look at a combination of the 1920s and art deco. This is in keeping with the strong, linear influence that permeates many of the Sabatini and Sabatini White collections and we feel that the linear nature of these collections works well with the ideal of an independent woman. Our look is one of confidence and success, whilst still retaining a strong emphasis on beauty, sophistication and glamour.

Initial sketches

REGARDING DRAPE: I had a sudden flash of inspiration via Valentino. Sabatini White have had a recurring theme of cutouts throughout their collections. They have done triangle cutouts, square/diamond cutout, and circle/oval cutouts. What they have not done is weave based cutouts. These form diamond cutouts as seen previously, however, the weave gives a new textural base and the weave also taps into the harness trend which is both young and as yet unexplored by Sabatini White.

c o l o u r

this is the beginnings of a possible colour board. everything's been retouched/ coloured to fit in a palette i threw together from what we had been talking about EXCEPT the scarf. Hopefully that will stay pretty much the same, but slightly warmer - dark dark brown instead of black, and a light mushroom/ grey colour for the lighter. steering wheel will prob stay black... and i have cut away that section of the image we spoke about, can discuss what to fill this with tomorrow. sweeet.

The Sabatini Woman

Thoughts?

Hahahahaha. Well. Thats the general idea.

So, mood board experimentation - figure is VERY VERY rough (I didn't bother live-tracing) and is still in pencil so we can change anything. Or get another one entirely. I'd be more than ok with that. think we really need to pull the image out a bit, its fairly cluttered.

initial concepts

Not much a fan, but... we'll see.

See Valentino does sexy!